I've been following Chef Sean Magee's tweets, but I haven't eaten there in some time. (Josh McCullough is now culinary director for Jason Evanchick's ever-growing restaurant group. So he's still in the family but overseeing a few kitchens.)
Since I barely had a bite of fried chicken in Kentucky- I had been thinking about the bird all week. We ordered that and a smokey rabbit dish with house-made fettuccine. (Which was delightful with a Sly Fox Oktoberfest).
The kitchen sends out some tomato sorbet. Heirlooms are here, there and everywhere on menus this week, but this was a nice variation. It had a little sweet, heat to it.
The chicken makes its entrance shortly thereafter. It's served with a creamed corn that's been shaved off the cob, and compressed watermelon with an accent of jalapeno. The chicken was on a different plane of delicious. It was perfectly cooked. Crispy but not remotely overdone. And my best bite of the week. And considering that the week included multi-course meals from the stellar kitchens of Zahav and Le Virtu- that's quite a complement.
Keep an I out for Evanchick's new spots opening soon, "Growlers" (with partner Jay Willard at 8th and Fitzwater) and the Garage bar on Passyunk. (across from Genos at the old Satellite garage).